RVs have two electrical worlds — the chassis battery that starts the engine and the house bank that runs the coach — and "it won't start" can come from either. We boost the chassis side safely, and we test both so you know whether you're dealing with a dead battery, a charging problem, or a switch left on.

What we handle

Chassis battery jump starts — gas and diesel motorhomes
12V and 24V jump-start capability for diesel coaches
House battery and inverter checks
Battery load testing on scene
Alternator and charging-system checks
Tow-vehicle jump starts for trailers and fifth wheels
Battery disconnect and isolator troubleshooting

Why RV jumps are different

Diesel pushers and larger Class A coaches carry big batteries and long cable runs; a compact car jump pack won't move them. We bring equipment sized for it, and we connect to the correct terminals — some coaches have remote jump posts under the hood that are safer than reaching the batteries in a bay. After the boost we check charging voltage, because a coach that starts and then dies ten minutes later is a charging fault, not a battery fault.

Before we arrive

Turn off the inverter, the fridge on 12V, and the interior lights. If the coach has a battery disconnect switch, make sure it's actually on — it's the most common "dead battery" that isn't.

Where we go

Emeryville-based, minutes to Oakland, Berkeley and San Francisco, with regular runs to the Tri-Valley, Marin and the Peninsula. All RV services →